Popular opinion has it that farmers are responsible for grubbing out thousands of miles of hedgerow each year. However, since the early 1990's, farmers have been busy planting new hedges and overall hedgerow length is increasing. Here we illustrate some of the practical aspects involved.
Hedge
planting normally takes place between December and March when the ground
is moist and the hedging plant is dormant. Planting is a manual task
that invoves creating a hole in the ground into which the plant is put.
Normally a special planting spade is used like the one illustrated.
This is known as a "notching spade".
It is necessary to lever the spade back and forth to open the ground
sufficiently for the plant roots to be placed deep into the soil. If
the ground is very hard or particularly stony, the task of notching
can be slow. The task will also be more difficult if new plants are
being added to an existing hedgerow (known as gapping up) where the
existing root structure will interfere with the new planting.
Young
trees are particularly vulnerable to pest damage in the early years
of the woodland. Protection is essential and this can either be through
perimeter fencing or through the protection of individual trees. Generally
it will be more economical to fence an area that exceeds one hectare,
whereas individual protection will be cheaper for smaller blocks.
Once
the plant is safely in the ground the farmer will heel the notched hole
back together. In good conditions it is possible to plant as many as
700 plants a day. However, this concludes the easy part! Young hedging
plants are particularly attractive to deer, rabbits and hares and will
be browsed to ground level without adequate protection. In addition
the young plants can be quickly choked by competitive weeds. Planting
a hedge is one thing, establishing it is another.
One
of the most popular ways of protecting the young plants is through the
use of shelters. These ones are about 50 cm tall and secured to the
ground with a small peg. Competitive weeds can be seen growing around
the shelters and these will have to be removed. Weeds can be controlled
manually which is both slow and expensive or sprayed with a herbicide.
A
view down the shelter as a young hazel plant bursts into life. Hedging
protected this way enjoys a beneficial microclimate and is often early
into leaf. Shelters also help the farmer to identify the location of
the plant and to spray off the surrounding weeds safely.
Herbicide
control of weeds is important for the first couple of years while the
young hedge establishes. Herbicides fall into two groups; those that
control weeds like Roundup, and those that prevent weeds from emerging,
for example Kerb. Both types can usually be mixed and need to be applied
to provide weed free conditions during April, May and early June.
Weed
free conditions lead to higher soil moisture levels are greater nutrient
availability in general. Helping a new hedge in this way is particularly
important where it has been planted into an old hedge line where rotting
and diseased material can further reduce establishment success.
There
are many different types of shelter in use and these here are supported
by a bamboo cane. Along side this planting is a new fence which provides
protection from the road and prevents wildlife from cutting through
the hedge and causing damage.
In
exposed locations the new hedge could be protected on both sides by
fencing. In this case note good practice in the use of a grass
margin which buffers the hedge from the farming activities in the field.
User comments - post a comment
Submitted by: Hannah on 2007-11-21 17:38:18.0
Location:
Comment: Herbicide use is not necessary and is counter-productive in the long term. The use of mulches stops weeds, improves soil moisture retention, prevents soil erosion, adds nutrients and has no harmfull side effects.
Submitted by: Jim on 2008-01-04 17:23:00.0
Location: Derbyshire
Comment: Hannah is right that mulches help to stop weeds and improve moisture retention. However if you plant lots of new hedges like I do, it is impossible to get anywhere enough mulch to be effective (you'll need a lorry load for every 100 metres). Its also expensive and time consuming to add. If you are gapping up hedges and trying to control an existing weed burden, mulches will be ineffective against woody weeds like elder and old man's beard. Which leaves herbicides as a good answer and by getting the new hedge off to a good start, you quickly create the habitat that you want.
Submitted by: Norman on 2008-06-18 09:39:04.0
Location: Kent
Comment: Hannah is correct about mulches, but Jim is also right in that time and effort need to be costed into hedge planting activities. One point, however, here in Kent both Elder and Old Mans Beard are important components of a native hedgerow to increase diversity for wildlife; it should not be seen as a problem if they grow in gaps, unless we are aiming for 'monoculture hedges'!!
Submitted by: tom on 2008-07-29 18:41:55.0
Location: everywhere
Comment: Hannah-really, who (in their right mind) has the time or help to mulch a couple of miles of new hedge?-please don't be an envirowacko----
Submitted by: Anon on 2009-06-10 11:05:11.0
Location:
Comment: I have found over the past thirty years that chemicals are the way forward and will give young plants a fighting chance. If money were no object I would have gone down the green route but I have to live in the real world…